Bulgaria

Reasons to go:

Sofia

A great city for work-from-homing. Neighbourhood around The Small Five Corners is the best place to stay.

Beautiful churches:

  • St. Sophia Church - the oldest one, dating back to the 4th century.
  • Alexander Nevsky Cathedral - the biggest one.
  • To All The Bulgarian Martyrs Church - the smallest one. Located in the park in front of the National Palace of Culture, at (42.686584, 23.320424). No more than 3 people can possibly fit into it.
  • Church of Sveti Sedmochislenitsi - a beautifully converted mosque. For quick comparison, visit Banya Bashi Mosque which is architecturally similar but aesthetically very different.
  • The Exaltation of the Christ’s Holy Cross - one of the newest ones. Note the modern fume cupboards for the candles.
  • Church of St. Nicholas the Miracle-Maker - small and very pretty.
  • Sveta Nedelya Church.

Other stuff:

  • Graffiti by BOZKO, an amazing local artist who is now one of my favourites. I used this map to get me started. Many of the works are north of the Chavdar Bridge.
  • Socialist Art Museum - This museum showcases art from when the country was under Communist rule (1944-1989). A large outdoor sculpture park contains everything from a giant statue of Lenin that once stood in the center of the city to the red star that topped the socialist party headquarters. Inside you’ll find propaganda paintings, documentary videos and photographic galleries.
  • In the evenings, watch local kids doing tricks on scooters and bikes (skateboards are no longer in fashion?) in Knyazheska Garden, near Orlov most station entrance.

Food and drink:

  • Баш Мерак - the best Bulgarian food I found. Traditional dishes, and they bake their own bread and brew their own beer. A nearby Studentski grad park is a popular hangout place for the locals.
  • Best cocktails are at 3 oz. Bar (come at unpopular times to make the most of their “no menu” system) and 5L Speakeasy bar.
  • Cosmos Restaurant has the best tasting menu (they have a vegetarian one too) and great cocktails too.
  • Raketa Rakia Bar, by the same people as Cosmos Restaurant, has great Bulgarian food and great rakia-based cocktails from Sputnik Cocktail Bar next doors. The Sputnik Cocktail Bar itself is a great hangout spot, but I wouldn’t call it a cocktail bar.
  • Cake Lab is where the best cakes are. If you have more space for cake, Cakey Bakey and Orsetti Pasticceria are also very good.
  • Other memorable meals I had: Made in Home, and Vino & Tapas.
  • Hambara (ul. “6-ti septemvri” 22, 1142 Sofia Center), at least when I visited, was a candle lit bar with a unique atmosphere. Drinks were bad, but it seemed like I caught this place in transition. I expect it will look and feel very different next time I’m there. Hope the candles will still be there.

Notes:

  • Metro works with any contactless bank card, just tap in and out, no need to buy a physical ticket.
  • TaxiMe app works well.
  • All rental car pickups are from Terminal 2 of Sofia airport. Do not go to Terminal 1, even if your rental agreement says so.

Outside Sofia:

  • Seven Rila Lake - from Lift-Bottom Station it is a 20 minute beautiful ride on the chair lift through the forest to the hiking area. Beware of snow.
  • The Monastery of Saint Ivan of Rila
  • Drive from Razlog to Yundola along the road 84 - notice how churches give way to mosques.
  • Drive from Yundola to Belovo along the road 842 - a beautiful mountain pass, with a great middle-of-nowhere feeling.

Plovdiv

  • Bishop’s Basilica of Philippopolis - the biggest Roman mosaic I’ve ever seen. Breathtaking, impressive and exciting. This is the reason why you must visit Plovdiv.
  • Ancient Town Of Plovdiv, which is now an Architectural Reserve, is unique and well maintained. Visit beautiful “St. st. Konstantin and Elena” Church while you are there.
  • Dzhumaya mosque (Cuma Camii) is beautiful. Complete your visit with a warm drink and something sweet at Turkish Coffee and Pastry Shop “Dzhumaya”, located in the same building on the opposite side from the mosque entrance.
  • Kapana neighbourhood is the main going-out area. Aylyakria Restaurant is exceptionally good. “Tables, Plovdiv” restaurant is good.
  • Best views of the city are from Nebet Tepe and Sahat Tepe (next to the Clock tower). On your way to Sahat Tepe don’t miss the graffiti on the ul. “Nayden Gerov” street, along the side of the Sahat Tepe park. There are many amazing works, including one by BOZKO.
  • Sveta Marina church is beautiful.
  • Still on my to-visit list: Small Basilica Archeological Site and Roman theatre of Philippopolis.

Notes

  • Fibank doesn’t charge for ATM withdrawals.