Cyprus

Reasons to go:

1. Nicosia

  • The Cyprus Museum (archaeology; free) - the best museum in Nicosia. If you have more time, continue to The Leventis Municipal Museum of Nicosia (free).
  • Architecture hunting inside the old city walls of Nicosia - Church of Panayias Phaneromenis, Apostle Barnabas Cathedral, Agios Savvas church, Nicosia old aqueduct, Eleftheria Square, etc. Some gems I found outside the city centre - Ayios Mamas chuch, Holy Church of Agios Panteleimonas Glyfada, UNIC Residences, The Tomb of Makedonitissa military cemetery.
  • NiMAC gallery (modern art; free) - open till late, when everything else is shut. Nearby, Swimming birds is a nice place for a coffee or a cocktail; or try Kafenio 11.
  • Cyprus Classic Motorcycle Museum (not free) - if you like motorcycles, you’ll love this collection. Might open a bit later than the official opening hours.
  • Walk along the border with North Nicosia. It is especially atmospheric after sunset. I found a party at Charátsi cafe, see what you’ll find.
  • The Home Cafe★ - a chance to get a good coffee inside the UN buffer zone. You’ll have to go through the passport checkpoint at (35.176943, 33.354944), but the experience is totally worth it.
  • North Nicosia. Pedastrian crossing point on Ledras street works well. Selimiye Camii (it was still under renovation when I visited), Büyük Han and Municipal Market Bandabulia are all architecturally interesting, but don’t limit yourself to that. The area inside the old city walls is peppered with interesting buildings and many of them have information plaques. Here are some examples to get you started - National Struggle Museum (peek in from the outside), pretty neighbourhood at (35.17988, 33.360636), court building (35.178464, 33.360523), Arapahmet Mosque, UN tower (35.175727, 33.355678), etc.
  • Still on my wishlist: A. G. Leventis Gallery (Cyprus art collection, not free), Shacolas Tower Museum and Observatory (not free).

Food and drink:

  • Piatsa Gourounaki - a great place for traditional Cyprus food.
  • Yiayia Victoria - a great place for late breakfast after 10am. It is frequented by locals (hence no menu) and is located right on the border (which is an experience). Try Cyprus coffee and bougatsa, of which they usually have three types - feta, spinach and crema (the sweet one).
  • Granazi (γρανάζι) - the place for cocktails in Nicosia. Apart from great menu they also have frequently changing seasonal menu.
  • Beba Restaurant (Εστιατόριο Μπέμπα) - still on my wishlist as I failed to book in advance. Kuzuba is another one on my wishlist.

Notes:

  • For a short stay it is best to stay inside the old city walls - on the map, look for a circle that includes Famagusta Gate and D’Avilla Bastion.
  • MAS Green Tree Supermarket, with two floors, is great for grocery shopping.

2. Paphos district

  • Archaeological site of Nea Paphos★ - the most exciting archaeological site in Cyprus. Entrance at (34.756011, 32.408394), finish exploring the paid area before exiting through (34.762684, 32.41159) and continuing to explore the un-ticketed part. For more, continue to Archaeological Site of the Tombs of the Kings (entrance at (34.774976, 32.407309)). In both locations you can stay for longer than the opening hours. Look out for MV Demetrios II shipwreck.
  • Avakas Gorge - beautiful hike from the parking (34.920386, 32.337911) to (34.925203, 32.347153). When I visited there was a road closure at (34.910157, 32.32647), but there was a way to reach the beginning of the hike by driving through (34.913131, 32.332567).
  • Edro III Shipwreck (34.873062, 32.339353) - a cool thing to see. Free, 24/7.
  • On my wishlist: Archaeological Site of Palaepaphos and Local Archaeological Museum of Palaepaphos - the old location of Paphos before the city was moved to its current location. Akamas National Forest Park.

Food:

  • Onar Pafos - modern Greek Cypriot restaurant.
  • The Windmill - traditional Cypriot food. Don’t miss the pretty Church of Agion Anargyron nearby.
  • Corner Restaurant - Georgian food.
  • Koutourou Ouzeri - still on my wishlist as I failed to book in advance.

3. Troodos Mountains

  • Mount Olympos★ - the most beautiful area of Cyprus. Drive to (34.936175, 32.862546) and enjoy many hiking opportunities from here. I went to (34.928828, 32.871023) and really enjoyed it. Another peak to visit by car (34.95619, 32.995263) also has great hiking opportunities.
  • Painted Churches in the Troodos Region - there are so many of them. I enjoyed small ones (like this one (34.954846, 32.64837) - locals explained that they leave the doors tied with rope to prevent animals from entering, feel free to untie the door and enter), big ones (Monastery of Saint John Lampadistes (34.992233, 32.830184) is a great example of a painted church), old ones (Panagia tou Moutoulla (34.982651, 32.824271)) and new ones (Ayios Arsenios Church (34.941638, 32.970574)). On the way you pass cute old villages like Kalopanagiotis, Moutoulas and Pedoulas; which is both exciting and makes you guilty for bulldozing over the village with a car, when it was not built for cars.
  • Cedar valley (34.990999, 32.688429) - a beautiful drive and a hiking opportunity.
  • On my wishlist: Cyprus Railways Museum, Troodos Geopark Visitor Centre.

4. Famagusta district

  • Historic Walled City of Famagusta. St. Nicholas’s Cathedral renovated into Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque★ is an architectural gem not to be missed! There is also Church of St. George of the Greeks, Sinanpaşa Cami (Buğday Cami), Twin Churches and other interesting structures dotted around the small walled city. Great views from Ravelin Bastion and the other bastion (35.126, 33.944271). Walks along the city wall both on the inside and the outside. Free parking inside at (35.125745, 33.940485) and elsewhere. Just outside the walled city, Osman Fazil Polat Pasha Mosque is frequented by locals.
  • Salamis Harabeleri. This is a large archeological area, especially enjoyable in late March when everything here is flowering. At the entrance gate (35.186998, 33.903684) only TRY cash is accepted. After repeatedly asking to pay in EUR cash, I was told to enter for free, probably because I could easily access the site from the beach (35.181732, 33.906162). Inside, you’ll need EUR cash to pay for the toilet (35.184627, 33.903967). Two interesting things I found nearby: Burial Crypt of Saint Barnabas (35.175436, 33.882256) that you can visit for free and Lion’s Garden (35.163707, 33.901218) - a crazy building that was not open to visitors.
  • Varosha ghost town is high on my wishlist. The only legal entrance (35.117508, 33.954461) is shut in the evenings, that’s all I know. I believe it is possible for tourists to arrange a visit.
  • I used both Pergamos crossing point and Deryneia crossing point to get in/out of Northern Cyprus, both work well.

5. Kyrenia district

  • St. Hilarion Castle - a really fun castle on top of a steep peak. Entrance fee in TRY cash only. You can exchange EUR cash (paper notes only) for TRY cash in the cafe (35.311134, 33.281221) just outside the ticket office. On the way there you’ll pass through military training grounds, drive slowly and you might witness something interesting.
  • Kyrenia Castle - a nice castle. Card accepted for tickets, but TRY cash only for parking. The Shipwreck museum with remains of a 4th century BC Greek merchant ship is the main reason to visit. Nice view of the harbour from the castle walls. And great views of the castle from the harbour.
  • Bellapais Abbey - ruins of a beautiful old abbey. Located in the middle of a heavily touristy village. Entrance fee and all nearby parking in TRY cash only. On the way to/from here, Muaz vegetarian restaurant is good for falafel-stuffed pittas.
  • I used Metehan crossing point (35.181882, 33.323254) to get in/out of Northern Cyprus, it works well. Driving past İsmail Safa Camii was a highlight.

6. Limassol district

  • Limassol: Ayia Napa Cathedral and Katholiki church (Panagias Pantanassa) are both beautiful inside. I had a great meal at Alley restaurant; still on my wishlist are MEZE Taverna Restaurant (Greek food) and The Modern Kitchen (pizza). In the evening, go hunting for street art - (34.67515, 33.042368) is a good starting point.
  • Kourion archaelogical site is interesting, entrance at (34.663625, 32.88765). Fromm there you can continue to Sanctuary of Apollo Hylates (great for sunset views). Both are not free, and you can stay for longer than the opening hours.
  • Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s Rock; free) - beautiful location for sunset.
  • Kourion Beach is huge and popular with locals.
  • Cyprus Motor Museum - nice museum, expensive.
  • On my wishlist: Old Church of Saint Nicholas flooded in the Kouris reservoir, Local Archaeological Museum of Kourion.

7. Larnaca district

  • Larnaka: Holy Church of Saint Lazarus is beautiful on the outside both during the day and lit up at night. Panagia Faneromeni church frequented by locals (an old one and a new one next to each other) is still on my wishlist. Elia Backyard Restaurant has great food and local wines by the glass, including commandaria.
  • Ayia Napa Sculpture Park - free and accessible 24/7. Nearby, if by car, Old Village Tavern has ok food.
  • On my wishlist: Cavo Greco National Park.

Notes:

  • Local drinks to try: commandaria (dessert wine), retsina (wine infused with pine tree resin), Filfar Cypriot Orange Liqueur. Wash these drinks down with warm cheesy dishes like saganaki and bouyiourdi.
  • Late March is a perfect time to visit - everything is blossoming and it is not too hot yet.
  • Bolt app works to get to/from the Larnaca airport (LCA).
  • Crossing in/out of Northern Cyprus is free. No stamps in the passport. No problems with rental cars, just have to purchase mandatory insurance on the way in (EUR cash only). Foreign bank cards are widely accepted in Northern Cyprus, but you’ll need TRY cash for some things (parking, entrance fees, toilets, etc.) so bring it with you to avoid bad exchange rates.
  • Just imagine - there was no way to cross in/out of Northern Cyprus between 1974 and 2003.