Nicaragua

Reasons to go:

1. Volcano-land around Leon

Cerro Negro Volcano★ and Volcan del Hoyo. Both hikes start from the park ranger station (12.494515, -86.702534). You need a 4x4 car to reach the station. A popular tour is to hike Cerro Negro in the morning, then hike up Volcan del Hoyo and camp there, and return the next day via Laguna de Asososca (El Tigre) where you can swim. Unexpectedly, I hiked both volcanoes in one day due to bad weather that prevented camping. Having done that, I now know what my perfect tour would be and I’m sure it can be requested: Early start, hike Volcan del Hoyo first, have packed lunch at the station, then hike Cerro Negro and watch the sunset from there. On top of Volcan del Hoyo you can see the famous small crater (12.486394, -86.667473), the big sulfur vent (12.487295, -86.665045) and the big old crater (12.489126, -86.665305). Cerro Negro is the youngest volcano, and hence the most volcanoey in the whole of Nicaragua. The hike is through beautiful lava fields, until the crater view at (12.507823, -86.703288); you are allowed to come back the same way, but it is encouraged to take the fast straight route down which will get a lot of tiny sharp rocks into your shoes. Must bring spare socks.
Telica Volcano★. It would be a long hike, so I took a sunset tour in a 4x4 car that brings you to (12.616787, -86.839548) for a short hike to the crater. Sometimes you can see lava glow after sunset.
Cosigüina Volcano - on my wishlist. See official information and an informative blog. Apart from the trails (two?) that lead to the top of the volcano, there is also Los Humedales Trail through the wetlands not to be missed.
San Cristobal Volcano - on my wishlist.
Momotombo Volcano - on my wishlist.

2. Ometepe island

Río Istián★ - the most beautiful place. I rented a kayak from Playa Mangos (11.467892, -85.561493) (it included a guide) and paid extra to be towed by boat to/from the mouth of the river. The guide pointed out birds, iguanas, monkeys and sleeping bats. Huge diversity of birds. After kayaking, I stayed for a swim at Playa Mangos. I loved it so much, that I did it all again the next day. Comparing the two experiences, I saw many more birds at 13:00 than at 17:00. I read that early morning and just before sunset are the best times for birdwatching, but in the morning it is crowded as big groups come from hostels and towards sunset it gets darker and hence harder to see wildlife. If it is not too hot, going in the middle of the day is great. To see caymans, visit when the water levels are low in March-April, though you might be hiking instead of kayaking. I visited when the water was particularly high, so I could only see the fiery eyes of the caymans reflecting my headlamp after sunset.
Concepción Volcano - on my wishlist. It is higher than Maderas volcano, but a much easier hike.
Maderas Volcano - I pre-booked the day before at El Porvenir Albergue Ecológico (11.482602, -85.537104) and started my 6:00 hike from there the next morning. You have to pay a small fee for hiking through their property, but they provide a coffee/juice in exchange. I asked to have my drink after the hike and thorougly enjoyed post-hike rest in their flower garden. I only hiked half-way, what locals call “hasta el Mirador”, to the viewpoint at (11.462493, -85.525742). It was very muddy (it has been raining) and I didn’t see many birds. Above that point the cloud forest starts, so it gets more beautiful (I believe) but also much more muddy and dangerous (even in dry weather the clouds keep everything moist and muddy). If you are not planning to hike all the way to the top, perhaps do the hike to Cascada de San Ramón (the waterfall) instead. Or indeed - pick any other volcano in Nicaragua.
Playa Santo Domingo - the beach that extends far in both directions.

Notes:

Bustavo Restaurant - the best food I found on the island.
There are fireflies on the island, especially in the wet season. I saw them at Playa Mangos, but they must be everywhere.
Getting a rental car on and off the island was a bit tricky. I got the current ferry schedule from my hostel on the Ometepe island, and decided to travel with Arcia Ometepe as they have the most departures per day. Car spots must be pre-booked and the only way to do this is via WhatsApp on +50589664983. Once you get an informal confirmation for both directions of travel, you got your spots. Arrive 1 hour before the scheduled departure (in both directions) to go through the admin roller coaster of paying for tickets, taxes, tariffs and permits; I stopped counting how many. If you don’t speak Spanish, this might be a bit tricky.

3. Mombacho volcano

This National Park is open for visits without pre-booking on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays. Arrive at the entrance (11.842108, -86.012504) where you’ll pay per person for transport up the volcano and for access to a particular hike of your choice. You want to be there at 8:00 to catch the first bus up, departing at around 8:30. The bus will take you to (11.834125, -85.980232) where you have to find yourself a guide. The price per guide is fixed and there is a limited number of guides, so it is best to make new friends and share the guide and the cost. All payments are cash only.
I did El Puma hike★ (with a mandatory guide) - it was great, especially the dead forest (Bosque Muerto) and the views of the craters. I then did El Cráter hike (the only one you are allowed to do without a guide) and did not feel like it added much.
On the way from Mombacho volcano, stop at the El Boquete viewpoint (11.89449, -86.048295) for views of Laguna de Apoyo.

4. Reserva Natural Isla Juan Venado ★

I went on a two hour birdwatching tour in a small boat, the starting point was a short walk from Barca de Oro hotel in Las Peñitas. The starting time will depend on the tides. I saw a great variety of bird species and a huge number of birds in total. I later found out that it is possible to organise longer tours that go deeper into the protected area and reach breading grounds with even more birds and even greater diversity of species, so I shall return.
It is also possible to participate in the release of baby sea turtles on the beach in the afternoon (November to January). I’m not sure if it is a harmful or a beneficial activity from the environmental point of view, do your own research.
I was glad I didn’t stay in Las Peñitas. The place had a desolate vibe and the locals were the least friendly compared to all the other places I’ve visited in Nicaragua.

5. Masaya volcano

Most of the National Park was closed when I visited. I paid at the entrance (12.013026, -86.142151) (cash only), did a small hike from (12.000851, -86.150815), and visited a small museum at (12.003431, -86.148417) - bats in the fake lava tube were a pleasant surprise.
The lava lake that you see on all the pictures was covered with debris in March 2024. If the lava lake reappears, both a day time hike and an after dark visit will be a must.
Exploring Masaya town is on my wishlist.
If you happen to be in Managua, Los Robles is a nice, though car-centric, area to stay, extending all the way past Galerías Santo Domingo shopping mall. Cocina de Doña Haydée restaurant is on my wishlist. I found another nice, and equally car-centric, neighbourhood around Elefante Amarillo coffee shop. On my wishlist: Plaza Nicaragua, Santiago of Managua Cathedral, Palacio Nacional, Catedral Metropolitana de Managua, Loma de Tiscapa. On a weekend head to Centro Turístico Xiloá (free) for a picnic on the shore of Laguna de Xiloá and a swim with the view of Apoyeque volcano - it is popular with locals and you are likely to be the only tourist.

6. Granada

Cementerio De Granada - magnificent angel-lined walkways of this cemetery was one of the best things I’ve seen in Granada. Entrance at (11.92333, -85.964246).
A walk through the city centre: Guadalupe Church, Calle La Calzada (the pedestrian street with mosaics), Immaculate Conception of Mary Cathedral Church, Church of the Mercy, Calle El Consulado (a street lined with particularly impressive buildings, directly west from Parque Central de Granada). If I would have more time I would continue to Iglesia Xalteva, Chapel Maria Auxiladora, Antiguo Hospital San Juan de Dios Granada and Old Railroad Station.
Food: I had a great meal at NM Culinary Granada, despite all vegetarian options being listed as starters. I was worried about the strict dress-code specified on their website, but they kindly pretended not to notice my hiking clothes. The Garden Cafe has great breakfast, lunch and dinner, and the best coffee I found in the whole of Nicaragua, and you can buy Mulukakao chocolate here. Pita pita restaurant and the vegetarian burger at Tostometro are on my wishlist.

7. Leon

Catedral De Leon Nicaragua. Walking on the rooftop of this cathedral was a highlight. Buy the tickets at (12.43482, -86.877479) and find the entrance at (12.434755, -86.878324).
Ortíz Gurdián Foundation Art Center - great art museum, located in two different buildings across the road from each other. Make some time - it is a big one.
Church of the Recollection - a beautifully crumbling church. If I had more time, I’d include these into my walk: Parroquia de San Juan Bautista de León, Iglesia El Calvario, Iglesia Zaragoza, Templo histórico San Juan Bautista de Sutiaba and Ruinas de la Iglesia de Veracruz.
Food and drink: Coco Calala vegetarian restaurant is great both for breakfast and dinner, and anything in between. Pan & Paz French Bakery for coffee and something sweet. Café Libélula - where I found the best coffee in Leon. Cerro Negro Taproom - local craft beers.
The twice daily siren that goes off at 7:00 and 12:00 is traditional, it is not an evacuation signal.

On my wishlist:

Notes:

All of my tours (volcanoes Cerro Negro, del Hoyo and Telica and birdwatching in Juan Venado) were organised by Glauco Sponza elperezoso.nicaragua@gmail.com from El Perezoso, based in Leon. I highly recommend them.
Best time to visit: The dry season is November to April, the slightly wet is May to August, the very wet is September and October. Locals told me that October is the worst time to visit. December to February is particularly good for sunrise and sunset watching on volcanoes around Leon, as the sky is typically clear. But December to February is the worst time to visit Ometepe island, as the lake gets rough and the ferries are frequently cancelled.
I bought Claro sim card at the airport, and I had connection most of the time. Be specific about what package you want to buy - I was offered a package with data and calls for 30 days, but they didn’t mention that you can only call other Claro numbers and only for the first 7 days. The data will continue working in neighbouring countries, but the calls won’t. Locals told me that Tigo sim cards are a decent competitor to Claro.
I found Kelly’s and Freya’s blogs really useful.
La Colonia was my favourite chain of supermarkets where I did all my grocery shopping. They have shops in Leon and in and around Managua.
You might need USD cash to enter the country, so keep it handy. Most places, from national parks to restaurants, will take both córdoba (NIO) and USD. I did one cash withdrawal from an ATM and then subsisted on paying in USD (where it is welcome) and getting change in córdobas (for using in places that prefer it).
My USA plugs worked everywhere.