Spain

Reasons to go include:

1. Canary Islands
2. Madrid
3. Barcelona
4. Picos de Europa National Park
  • Torre de los Horcados Rojos hike. From the upper station of the cable car (43.153527, -4.805388) head off in the direction of (43.154605, -4.806366) instead of following everyone along the farm road to (43.160532, -4.806627), take the paths between mountain lakes aiming for (43.169123, -4.815333), hike up the steep bit here (43.175276, -4.822902), see everyone having lunch here (43.177739, -4.833232) and here (43.180446, -4.832428), and then hike up the peak (43.178881, -4.829777). The hike there and back is about 10km with 800m total ascent. The views are incredible. If the weather or your own condition is bad, the road from the cable car (43.153527, -4.805388), via (43.160532, -4.806627), until (43.169123, -4.815333) was, until recently, passable by trucks heading to the Minas de Altaiz, so it is an easy walk. Book Teleférico Fuente Dé tickets well in advance; expect a long queue on the way back. Staying walking distance from the cable car solves the parking issues.
  • Ruta del Cares - a largely flat hike through the canyon between Poncebos and Caín de Valdeón villages. I did it as a there and back hike from Poncebos: the hike starts with a sharp turn at (43.253688, -4.837815), from there it goes up and down the hill until (43.253542, -4.862813) where it joins an aqueduct and becomes largely flat for the rest of it. This viewpoint (43.234342, -4.890621) was probably my favourite and a good place to turn back, or you could continue until the drinking mountain water tap at (43.227195, -4.894671) or until Caín de Valdeón village (43.213726, -4.90270). The hike there and back is up to 22km. While you can book a bus/tour/taxi to make it an 11km one way hike, I don’t think the long drive is worth it. Instead I’d recommend starting from Caín de Valdeón and enjoying the largely flat walk until you want to turn back. Since the hike is deep in a canyon, GPS readings are grossly inaccurate, so you won’t get a good estimate of total ascent neither from the internet nor from your fitness watch. My estimate is that starting from Poncebos the total ascent of there and back hike is about 300m - all done between (43.253688, -4.837815) and (43.253542, -4.862813); my understanding is that the total ascent of there and back hike from Caín de Valdeón until (43.253542, -4.862813) is insignificant. The dramatic views all along the hike are superb. It is a man-made walk, so you won’t get a wilderness feeling; on the plus side it seems safe to do in bad weather (though low clouds are likely to curtail the views). Staying walking distance from the start of the hike solves the parking issues. Goat Pizza restaurant in Las Arenas is highly regarded.
  • Lagos de Covadonga. From the bus station/parking lot at (43.276877, -4.986048) you have three options - the 6km family friendly loop, the hike to Refugio Vega de Ario (43.242934, -4.923085), or the hike to Mirador de Ordiales (43.224289, -5.012044). I did the Refugio Vega de Ario hike that goes via (43.265748, -4.976023) and brings you to a stunning viewpoint at (43.23962, -4.926319); from here I could see the refugio and I turned back. In bad weather this hike is likely to be too muddy and not worth it. As you approach the end of your hiking, keep in mind that the toilets near the bus station/parking lot get locked at 18:30 or earlier (long before the last bus), don’t end up in the middle of a busy parking lot desperate for a toilet. On most days between April and October you are not allowed to drive to Lagos de Covadonga - see the official website for the exact list of dates. On those dates you can park at Covadonga (43.309519, -5.051424) and take a bus or a taxi for the 10km drive to the start of the hikes. When I visited, the system was as follows: Buses went from P5 stop (43.30815, -5.051489) to (43.276877, -4.986048), starting from 8:00, costing 9 EUR for a return trip, tickets to be purchased online well in advance. Two taxi companies operated from (43.308318, -5.055866) for Taxitur Covadonga Los Lagos and (43.30748, -5.052099) for Taxi Pachu Lagos de Covadonga to the taxi rank at (43.271868, -4.982508), starting (contrary to what their website says) from 8:30, costing 12 EUR for a return trip (their card machines don’t always work, so they advice you bring cash to avoid disappointment), cannot be booked in advance. Taxitur have many more taxis, but also much longer queues. The bus is a far superior option, as it saves you from two very long queues. If, like me, you find that the early buses are already sold out, you can buy a return bus trip with the view of taking only the return journey and then arrive in Covadonga early (the parking fills up very fast) and be one of the first people to join the taxi queue. My bus ticket was valid on the way back, despite not taking the first leg of the journey; given the long queues at both taxi operators, I was so glad to have that bus ticket. Perhaps Lagos de Saliencia hike from (43.057062, -6.090394) is a better option.
  • See Zanna’s blog.

5. Bilbao
  • Guggenheim Museum Bilbao - a mix of permanent and temporary exhibitions in an architectural masterpiece. Book tickets online in advance. There is free bag storage inside (airplane carry-on size suitcases are accepted) and the airport bus stop is nearby, so it is convenient to visit on your last day in Bilbao.
  • Azkuna Zentroa - architecturally exciting building, free to explore on the inside. Don’t miss the art gallery downstairs (this was the best temporary art exhibition I’ve seen in Bilbao, it was ticketed but free) and the 4th floor rooftop (not the 3rd floor restaurant).
  • Architecture: Buildings around Moyúa square, Albiako Lorategiak garden, Jado plaza, Euskadi plaza, San Jose plaza and Pedro Eguillor plaza, and views from Ibarreko Zubia bridge. Apart from these, my favourite buildings were: Alameda Recalde 34 (43.263846, -2.934897), BBVA building at (43.262006, -2.929652), Bizkaia Delegation Palace (43.261996, -2.932112), Lezama Leguizamon House (43.26418, -2.939507), Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón (43.260909, -2.929793), this one (43.26287, -2.9312), this one (43.263389, -2.929491), Bilbao La Concordia Station (seeing it from the bridge, but also walk inside and go upstairs to see the big stained glass window depicting the history of Bilbao), Arriaga Theater, Bilbao City Hall, Chimenea Parque Etxebarria.
  • Casco Viejo - the old town. Explore the narrow streets connecting Done Jakue Plazatxoa square, Miguel Unamuno plaza, this square with a drinking fountain (43.257517, -2.922762), Fountain of Dogs, Bilboko Donejakue Katedrala and Nueva Plaza.
  • Art galleries: Museum of Fine Arts of Bilbao, Uribitarte40 and Rekalde Aretoa are all free. If there is an exhibition in this BBVA building (43.259822, -2.922493) do come in to see the magnificent architecture inside.
  • After dark walk through Bilbao: lively Casco Viejo, views from Zubizuri bridge, Guggenheim Museum lit up at night and all the sculptures around it. If you have more energy, walk around Itsasmuseum Bilbao maritime museum to see Carola crane lit up (43.266838, -2.947188) and see if there is a light show at Fuente Cibernética (43.265769, -2.942016).
  • Bizkaia Bridge - a unique bridge, don’t look it up, just head towards (43.323214, -3.017138) and be surprised. Online you can find expensive tickets for the bridge experience, ignore that. Locals cross the bridge all the time, you can buy a cheap ticket, or tap in with your Barik Card which is even cheaper. There are two pedestrian entrances, while cars go in the middle; use the north side entrance for a less crowded experience. The bridge connects Portugalete and Areeta metro stations. On the Portugalete side, walk through the old town (43.320572, -3.017816) and see this viewpoint (43.32031, -3.016789). On the Areeta side, see Las Mercedes church (43.325858, -3.016117) built in a very different architectural style and walk the pedestrian street (43.325685, -3.01436).
  • Puerto Viejo (43.34965, -3.01444) in Algorta. The best view is from (43.349927, -3.014908). Trinitarian Fathers Catholic Church (43.353419, -3.012935) is architecturally interesting.

Bilbao notes:

  • Public transport does not work with bank cards. Buy a Barik Card (one per person) at any metro station, to avoid buying much more expensive single tickets. Barik Card is valid on all public transport, including Bizkaia Bridge and A3247 airport bus. You can tap into A3247 airport bus with a bank card (5 EUR) or Barik Card (1.80 EUR); it is a 15 minute non-stop journey between this bus stop (43.266743, -2.933351) and the airport.
  • Note that most supermarkets in Bilbao are closed on both Saturdays and Sundays. If you are looking for a bigger supermarket, look for Carrefour Market and Mercadona.
  • Despite many places with specialty coffee in the name, there was no great coffee in Bilbao when I visited. Nokora Specialty Coffee is probably the best. Otto’s Coffee Specialty Coffee and Baristas Club are both serviceable. I’ve heard good things about Bihotz Café Microbrewery.
  • Try the traditional bread made with buckwheat flour (harina de trigo sarraceno), I got mine from Levaduramadre. If I’d be looking for a fancy breakfast, I’d try Cokooncafé or Picnic Specialty Coffee. If I’d be looking for vegetarian pintxos, I’d try Plant Bites.