Uzbekistan

Reasons to go:

1. Samarkand

  • Registon Square - if you only have time to see one thing in Samarkand, make it this one. Allow a lot of time to explore it during the day, and come back in the evening to see it lit up in the dark. There is a 30 minute light show every evening, during my visit it started at 20:00.
  • Shah-i-Zinda was my second most favourite place in Samarkand. A fun way to visit is to first enter the Muslim Cemetery (39.663795, 66.984848), explore it along the main walkway, and then step over the very low locked gate (39.663443, 66.988065) to find yourself in the deep end of Shah-i-Zinda. After visiting, follow Organic Maps to the viewpoint (39.662512, 66.988778) outside the complex.
  • Amir Temur Mausoleum Gur-i Amir Сomplex. When inside the mausoleum, turn on your phone torch and press it against the stone walls left of the tomb to see the beautiful colour variations inside the stone slabs.
  • Bibi-Khanym Mosque - both renovated and not-yet-renovated parts.
  • Hazrat Khizr Mosque and Islam Karimov Mausoleum mean a lot to locals. Be extra respectful of local norms and dress code, and you’ll be rewarded with real not-for-tourists sights.
  • Observatory of Ulugbek. Visit Ulugbek Memorial Museum first, then the remains of the observatory will make sense. On the way back to the city center, stop by to visit Khoja Daniyor Mausoleum - it is believed that the saint continues to grow in the tomb, so the tomb is very long. It means a lot to locals, so be extra respectful of local norms and dress code.
  • Shishraxtxona Maosoleum - this will give you an idea how Samarkand looked pre-restoration. Across the street is the Khodzha Abdu-Derun Mausoleum and a big new mosque is being built next door to it.
  • Siab Bazar. Possible items to hunt for include kurut (dried sour cheese balls), sumalak (only in spring?), anzur (pickled wild onion, sold only in Samarkand), dried apricots stuffed with walnuts, fried ready-to-eat chickpeas.
  • Kosh Hauz Mosque is close to Registon Square and yet receives no attention from tourists. A cute little minaret inside the courtyard makes it totally worth a visit.
  • I didn’t visit the Samarkand winery (Samarkandskiy Vinnyy Zavod Imeni M. A. Khovrenko), or The Eternal City in the brand new district called Samarkand City (I believe it is just a place for storing tourists overnight).

Notes:

  • Read Oriental Architecture website to learn about the architectural gems of Samarkand.
  • YandexGo taxi app works well in Samarkand.
  • The best area to stay for 1 to 3 nights is between Siab Bazar and Registon Square, that way you’ll have half of the places to see north of you and half of them south of you, with many just a short stroll away. For a longer stay, it’s best to be just west of Central Park.
  • I had great vegetarian food at The Indian Kitchen (a restaurant opened by students from India who studied medicine in Ukraine and were displaced by the war) and at Xan Atlas Restaurant. If I had more time, I’d try Cafe Punjab (next door to The Indian Kitchen).
  • If you’ve prepared an efficient route through the city, you can see pretty much everything in 2 full days.

2. Khiva

Most of the architectural gems of Khiva are located inside the walls of Ichan Kala. While it looks confusing on Google Maps, the walls of Ichan Kala are clearly marked on Organic Maps. To visit Khiva’s architectural gems, you must buy a ticket (valid for two consecutive days) at the ticket office just outside the West Gate (Ota Gate).

2.1 Sights covered by the single ticket:

  • Toshhovli palace. Note that there are two separate ticketed entrances that lead to different, not interconnected parts of the palace. Khan’s reception room is beautiful.
  • Kuhna Ark. The tower of this fortress is the best spot for watching sunset lighting up Khiva’s architectural gems. Don’t miss the mint, though money printed on silk has been replaced with photocopies.
  • Juma Mosque. The wooden columns inside contain evidence of Khiva’s Zoroastrian past - a bird standing on the shoulder of an hourglass, a peacock, etc. Sadly I forgot to look for them.
  • Islam Khodja Madrasa, hosting Museum of Applied Arts.
  • Kutlug Murad Inaq Madrassah, hosting a collection of paintings. From the courtyard you can access the underground part.
  • Mohammed Rakhim Khan Madrassah.
  • and many more.

2.2 Sight that require extra payment on site:

  • Islam Khodja Minaret - it is very expensive, but totally worth it. Climbing the tallest (or second tallest?) minaret in Uzbekistan is an experience in and of itself. The views of the city from the top of the minaret are breathtaking.
  • Walk on top of the walls of Ichan Kala, starting from the North Gate (Bakcha Darvaza) where you buy the tickets. Allow a lot of time for this, and maybe even bring a picnic.
  • Pahlavan Mahmoud Mausoleum. Peeking at the beautiful entrance of the mausoleum was enough for me, so I didn’t buy the ticket.
  • Nurullaboy Palace. Very different from other things you see in Khiva, because it is a summer palace not motivated by religion, like the Sitorai-Mokhi-Khosa palace in Bukhara. The palace itself is a fun blend of eastern and western styles of decoration. Apart from the palace, there are a lot of interesting galleries to explore, so allow a lot of time for this visit.

2.3 Free:

  • Kalta Minor Minaret. This minaret was never finished, which leaves it up to your imagination how tall it could have been. When the construction started, the goal was to be able to see Bukhara from the top of this minaret.
  • Khiva Silk Carpet Work Shop. Read A Carpet Ride to Khiva: Seven Years on the Silk Road before you arrive, and observing weavers working with naturally dyed silk will feel like the most interesting thing you’ve ever seen.
  • Things outside the Ichan Kala walls - Said Niyaz Shali Karabay Mosque (real not-for-tourists mosque), Abd Al Bobo complex that is fun to explore, Naspurush Madrassah, Tort Shovvoz Complex, etc.

Notes:

  • Read Oriental Architecture website to learn about the architectural gems of Khiva.
  • Accomodation options inside the walls of Ichan Kala are the most atmospheric.
  • The local specialty is shivit oshi - bright green dill noodles topped with potato and carrot stew (with beef or beef stock) and served with tangy yogurt. Khorzem Art Restaurant is the only place in the city that really knows what you mean by “vegetarian”, but shivit oshi and other food there is disappointing. Terrassa Cafe & Restaurant offers great food and amazing views of the city both before and after sunset, and they’ll serve you vegetarian shivit oshi if you ask for it…though how vegetarian the stew will actually be depends on who is in the kitchen that day. Cafe Zarafshon offers good food, but there is no vegetarian option for shivit oshi (they’ll remove the bits of beef for you, but it is still a beef broth stew) and the place is set up to cater for big tourist groups. If I had more time, I’d try Khiva Moon.
  • If you’ve prepared an efficient route through the city, you can see pretty much everything in 2 full days.
  • The local taxi app is Khiva taxi 1054, but I haven’t tried it.
  • From Khiva it is not far to the Shavat border crossing into Turkmenistan.

3. Karakalpakstan

3.1 A trip to the Aral sea is likely to include:

  • Mizdakhan Necropolis. Don’t miss the underground part of the Mazlumkhan Sulyu Mausoleum (42.402689, 59.388248), Mazar of Shamun Nabi (another very long tomb, this time because the person was so kind that everyone believes he was very tall; 42.401527, 59.388839), Khalifa Yerezhep Madrassah.
  • Ship Graveyard in Muynak (43.788711, 59.034174). These ships used to be wild, but now they are all here, which makes it more convenient but less fun. The Museum of Aral Sea History tells the story of the ecological disaster that happened here. Formerly the fourth largest lake in the world, the Aral sea is disappearing because the rivers that used to feed into it were diverted for cotton irrigation. Locals told me that another reason for diverting the rivers was the fact that extracting gas deposits located underneath the Aral sea is much cheaper when it’s dry. Do your own reading.
  • Viewpoint from the Ustyurt Plateau (44.085611, 58.36458).
  • Aral Canyon viewpoint (44.156379, 58.377036).
  • A cemetery of nomadic muslims (44.233517, 58.276947).
  • Ruins of a Caravan Saray (44.487615, 58.191741).
  • All tourists are brought to this point on the shore of the Aral sea (44.505747, 58.233074). There are many ways to drive here on the now dry bottom of the sea. Tour operators prefer to drive on the Ustyurt Plateau instead, as it allows good views of Aral Canyon and Aral sea, and visits to a cemetery of nomadic muslims and ruins of a Caravan Saray. To get here by driving on the Ustyurt Plateau, you must pass the checkpoint (44.498706, 58.186099). There used to be only one option for accomodation - the yurt camp (44.497874, 58.208055). Now the people who profit from collecting tiny shrimps from the Aral sea are building a new yurt camp (44.505747, 58.233074), it is not yet known what kind of place it will become.
  • Abandoned fishing village Urga (43.58529, 58.540614) on the shores of Lake Karateren (which used to be part of the Aral sea). If you see locals in their boats, try to talk them into taking you for a short boat ride. Don’t miss the high viewpoint (43.582772, 58.536274) of the lake.
  • I didn’t get to visit Barsa-Kelmes salt flats (43.267592, 57.795735) or Vozrozhdeniya Island.
  • It’s best to choose a two day tour that goes all the way to the Aral Sea, not just a one day drive from Nukus to Muynak and back.

3.2 Ancient fortresses

  • Read Oriental Architecture website to learn about these.
  • Ayaz Kala (42.014163, 61.029914) has the best walls to walk on.
  • Toprak Kala (41.92787, 60.821588) has the best rooms. A bit of renovation is going on.
  • Kizil Kala (41.930053, 60.784158) looks most like a castle. A lot of renovation is going on.
  • Сhilpik Dakhma (42.264133, 60.069789) was high on my wishlist, but the road works prevented me from getting anywhere near it.
  • Once you are in the area, also visit Sultan Uvays baba meshiti (42.011139, 60.645233) - a huge necropolis of high significance to locals and completely unknown to tourists. Be extra respectful of local norms and dress code.

3.3 Nukus, the capital

  • Nukus Museum of Art founded by Igor Savitsky is the main attraction.
  • If I had more time, I’d visit Muhammad Imam Iyshan masjidi - the main mosque.
  • Premier Lounge has ok vegetarian options and even ok pizzas. If I had more time, I’d try Cinnamon cafe.

4. Tashkent

4.1 Parkent Solar Furnace

  • Parkent Solar Furnace (41.314656, 69.740569), also known as Physics Of The Sun research institute, was a government secret until 2009. It is one of only two such solar furnaces in the world. The other one - Heliodyssee-Grand Four Solaire of Odeillo (42.494019, 2.029342) - is located in France and uses polished metal instead of mirrors (more efficient, but also more expensive). If you are in Tashkent, Parkent Solar Furnace is an absolute must-visit.
  • If you speak Russian, message Шерматов Жавохир Зафарович, the senior scientist at the institute, via Telegram +998901675582 to arrange a tour (not free). Use YandexGo taxi app to get there and ask the driver to wait and give you a ride back.
  • If you don’t speak Russian, ask a travel agency if they can arrange you a visit in a different language.
  • Read more about the institute here and here.

4.2 Different parts of Tashkent to explore

  • To explore old Tashkent I followed this Caravanistan map through Chigatay Graveyard, along the Kolkouz canal, into the Hazrati Imam complex, inside the Chorsu bazaar, and beyond.
  • To explore central Tashkent I followed this Caravanistan map. Pedestrianised Sailgokh Street is clearly a place to be on a warm summer night.
  • Metro stations in Tashkent are beautiful and it is now even allowed to take photos of them. Follow this guide to explore them. Some of the best ones are Mustaqillik Maydoni, Alisher Navoi, Kosmonavtlar.
  • Shayhantaur Memorial Complex is worth a visit, including Sheikh Hovendi at-Tahur Mausoleum.
  • Tashkent City Park and buildings surrounding it is the newest neighbourhood of Tashkent. It was interesting to see it and infer the direction in which the city is developing.

Still on my to-visit list:

  • Tashkent Television Tower (passport required to visit)
  • Railway Museum
  • Mosques (Minor mosque, Rakat Jami Mosque)
  • Art galleries (139 Documentary Center, Bonum Factum gallery, House of photography)
  • A walk along Anhor Canal
  • Neighbourhoods (Mirabad, Mirzo Ulugbek)
  • Markets (Alay Bazaar, Mirabad Bazaar)
  • Restaurants (Gril’yazh, Cafe 1991, Khiva Restaurant in Hyatt hotel)

Food and drink in Tashkent:

  • For breakfast, Safia chain of bakeries is excellent. In particular, the location at 54 Imam At-Termezy Street is great.
  • Afsona restaurant is pricey and it is on the touristy Taras Shevchenko Street, but for vegetarians this is a great place to try traditional Uzbek food.
  • Korean restaurants are great for vegan food. I loved this one: 한식당 알파&본죽 (alfa bonjuk ресторан). Next, I’d try this one: 서울식당, Сеул, Restaurant Seoul.
  • Other vegetarian-friendly options are Lebanese (Cafe Forn Lebnen is great) and Georgian (I’d like to try Gruzinskiy Dvorik and Georgia) restaurants.
  • The Bar Speak Easy - the only cocktail bar in Uzbekistan.

Notes:

  • The best place to stay in Tashkent is close to a metro station. Based on the places where I wanted to eat, Oybek station was most convenient for me.
  • YandexGo taxi app works well in Tashkent.
  • Read Oriental Architecture website to learn about the architectural gems of Tashkent.
  • Look out for works of the local graffiti artist InkUZart.
  • Every YandexGo driver recommended that I visit Magic City Park, but I think I did well by avoiding it.

5. Bukhara

5.1 Bukhara during the day:

  • Ark of Bukhara - this is a great place to start your exploration of Bukhara.
  • Kalyan Minaret - one of the tallest minarets in Uzbekistan. It’s gorgeous. There seems to be no way to climb it without a big bribe.
  • Abdulaziz Khan Madrassah - this charmingly unrestored mosque was one of the most memorable places in Bukhara for me. And it hosts the Museum Of Wood Carving.
  • Hoja Zayniddin mosque (Хужа Заиниддин) - I believe this mosque is a must-see, but it was not possible to visit during Ramadan. Gets no attention from tourists.
  • Bolo Hauz Mosque. This mosque has it all - a beautiful minaret, old wooden columns, benches outside for admiring it while resting, and crowds of locals visiting at prayer times. Gets no attention from tourists.
  • Kalan Mosque - when I visited, this was the only madrasa without souvenir shops, so I really enjoyed my time there.
  • Bukhara Art Gallery displays paintings of Rahim Hakimov (whose studio is located upstairs), it is free and very much worth a visit. And don’t miss Bukhara Photo Gallery located in the same building, also free.
  • Nodir Devonbegi Madrasah
  • Ulugʻbek madrasasi
  • Mir-i-Arab Madrasa
  • The minaret of the Khoja Gaukushan Ensemble - gets no attention from tourists. I think it’s really pretty.
  • Tim Abdulla Khan Trading Dome - this carpet shop is housed in a very architecturally exciting building.
  • Kolkhoznyy Rynok - if I had more time, I’d visit this market.
  • Magoki Attori Mosque - one of the oldest mosques with interesting zoroastrian remains; it was closed for renovation when I visited.

5.2 Bukhara in the evening:

  • Kalyan Minaret - seeing it lit up at night is a must.
  • Chor Minor Madrasah - the iconic four minarets are worth seeing, but the shop inside is of no interest and the money they charge to climb onto the rooftop is not worth it as the rooftop is too low to allow any views.
  • A wonderful walk to do after everything is shut for the evening is from the city center to Talipach Gate (the remains of city wall), via Samonids Recreation Park full of cheerful birds. Jump on the ledge of the Ismail Samani Mausoleum and use your phone torch to see inside. Also don’t miss the interestingly shaped Chashmai Ayub Mausoleum (I missed it).

5.3 Outside the city:

  • Şahı Nakşıbend Behaeddin-i Buhari Hazretleri - a destination of religious significance for locals. If you have time to spend, this is a nice place for a long relaxing stroll.
  • Sitorai-Mokhi-Khosa palace. Very different from other things you see in Bukhara, because it is a summer palace not motivated by religion, like the Nurullaboy Palace in Khiva. There are peacocks.
  • Chor Bakr Memorial Complex - I didn’t visit.

Food and drink in Bukhara:

  • Ayvan restaurant - this is the best food in central Bukhara. Because of its beautiful historical setting, the restaurant deserves a visit even if you are not hungry. The food here is much better than at Old Bukhara, which is widely recommended for vegetarians. The spiced tea is better and cheaper than at Silk Road Teahouse, which is frequented by droves of tourists.
  • Zaytoon restaurant is very good, and has a great selection of Uzbek wines by the glass, which I’ve not encountered anywhere else in Uzbekistan. It is located outside the touristic city center, but it is conveniently on the way to/from the train station (39.722227, 64.548614).
  • If I had more time, I’d try Andara, and Chalet.

Notes:

  • Read Oriental Architecture website to learn about architectural gems of Bukhara.
  • If you’ve prepared an efficient route through the city, you can see pretty much everything in 2 full days.
  • YandexGo taxi app works in Bukhara, but 3 out of 6 rides were problematic, while I had no problems in Tashkent or Samarkand.
  • Out of all the places in Uzbekistan, Bukhara was the only one where I encountered a lot of unpleasant situations. Unlike the rest of Uzbekistan, prices here are rounded up, change is given reluctantly if at all, and architectural gems are swamped in souvenirs.

6. Still on my to-visit list:

Before you go:

Notes:

  • The main restriction on travelling in Uzbekistan is that you need a registration slip for every night you spend in the country, showing your accommodation details and the times of check-in and check-out. Overnight train tickets count as a registration slip for that night. I’ve left Uzbekistan twice (through a land border and an airport) and nobody wanted to see my registration slips. It feels like this rule is slowly being relaxed. Perhaps soon it will become possible to go on camping holidays in Uzbekistan.
  • Ucell prepaid sim cards work well. Passport required to purchase. Avoid Beeline - a Russian provider of sim cards. If you land in Tashkent airport, start by withdrawing UZS from the airport’s ATM, buy Ucell sim card in the airport (cash only), install YandexGo taxi app (for me it was not possible to install it before arriving in Uzbekistan), and you are all set.
  • Every mobile device has to be registered with the government using this website. I didn’t stay long enough, so I didn’t do it.
  • The main taxi app is YandexGo. It works in major cities, but not in Khiva or Nukus. The prices are low and drivers are keen to take on very short and very long journeys too.
  • I got local currency both through ATM withdrawals (insert the card first, before pressing anything) and by exchanging USD in a bank (Agribank), both with no problems.
  • The main challenge for navigation in the country is that names of places are spelled differently every time. The same place can have a differently spelled name on Google Maps, Organic Maps, YandexGo app, Lonely Planet and your favourite blog post, resulting in 5 different versions. Here I tried to stick to spellings as they appear on Google Maps.
  • Thanks to tourism, vegetarian food is now widely available not only in Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, but also in Khiva and Nukus.
  • The official dinner time in Uzbekistan appears to be 19:00. If you have a particular place in mind but no booking, arrive before 19:00. This is especially true during Ramadan.
  • NazzAR app - a free augmented reality audio guide for many tourist sites. Worked well for me.
  • Many post boxes in Uzbekistan are no longer in use, so bring your postcards to the post office.
  • My standard EU charger worked everywhere in Uzbekistan and Karakalpakstan.